Frequently Asked Questions

HomeGuide's national figure for installed epoxy is $4 to $10 per square foot, which is about $1,600 to $5,800 for a two-car garage. Polyaspartic runs $5 to $12 per square foot in the same guide. Crack repair, old coating removal and decorative finishes add to the total. We give you a written price after we see the slab.

Using HomeGuide's $4 to $10 per square foot, 1,200 square feet comes to roughly $4,800 to $12,000 in epoxy. At the guide's $5 to $12 for polyaspartic, it is about $6,000 to $14,400. Large floors like that are often shops or open living areas, and the prep needed varies a lot, so the on-site visit sets the number.

Epoxy needs a clean, ground slab to bond, and it can peel where oil, sealer or moisture is left underneath. It takes days to cure fully and can yellow in sunlight, which matters in McAllen. It can also be slick when wet. Texture, a UV-stable topcoat and good prep address each of those.

HomeGuide estimates 3 to 5 years for thin water-based epoxy and 10 to 20 years for solid epoxy systems. Polyaspartic is listed at 10 to 20 years or more for homes. Prep, sun exposure and how hard the floor is used decide where a given floor lands.

Yes, with planning. We start early, keep mixing batches small, and pick a product whose working range fits the slab temperature that day. If a floor sits in afternoon sun, we may stage the work over two mornings rather than push through the heat.

We fill and grind stable cracks so they disappear under the coating. A crack that keeps moving can come back through any coating, and HomeGuide notes that cracks wider than a quarter inch can point to foundation movement. We tell you which kind you have at the estimate.

HomeGuide lists $1,600 to $5,800 for epoxy on a two-car garage of 400 to 576 square feet. HomeAdvisor's average epoxy floor project is about $2,526. Removing old paint, filling cracks and choosing a full flake broadcast push the price up within that range. We price your garage in writing after the visit.

That is usually hot-tire pickup. A thin coating on an etched slab softens under hot tires, sticks to the rubber and lifts. Grinding the surface and using a thicker system with a durable topcoat prevents most of it.

HomeGuide says to wait 16 to 24 hours to walk on epoxy and 2 to 7 days to drive on it, depending on the product. Polyaspartic topcoats shorten that. We give you exact times for your system and the weather that week.

A smooth, glossy finish can be slick, especially with water tracked in from a summer storm. A flake broadcast adds texture, and we can mix an anti-slip grit into the topcoat on solid-color floors.

Only if it is still bonded everywhere, which is rare by the time people call. In most cases we grind the old coating off so the new system bonds to bare concrete.

A full broadcast leaves a lightly textured surface, which is grippier than a smooth gloss floor. The texture depends on how many clear coats go on, so we can make it rougher for a ramp or smoother for a room you clean often.

The chips themselves are cheap; This Old House lists decorative flakes at about $10 a pound. HomeGuide puts customizations like flakes at $0.50 to $2.00 per square foot on top of the base system. Most of the cost is labor and the clear coat.

HomeGuide estimates 10 to 20 years for solid epoxy systems and 10 to 20 years or more for polyaspartic in homes. A UV-stable clear coat and regular sweeping help a flake floor reach the long end.

Yes, as long as the slab is sound and drains. We use a UV-stable topcoat and add texture so the surface stays safe when rain blows in.

For a garage that gets sun or needs to be back in use fast, polyaspartic has clear advantages. HomeGuide rates its UV resistance excellent and lists a 1 to 2 day full cure. Epoxy builds thickness more cheaply, which is why we often use both in one system.

HomeGuide lists polyaspartic at $5 to $12 per square foot against $4 to $10 for epoxy. On a two-car garage, that is about $2,000 to $6,900 versus $1,600 to $5,800.

HomeGuide estimates 10 to 20 years or more in homes with proper application and care. Commercial floors with heavy traffic may wear sooner.

Yes. HomeGuide lists an application range up to 140 degrees. Heat speeds up the cure, so we use small batches and work early in the day to keep the finish even.

Around a pool, most owners choose a cool-deck texture because it is light-colored and grippy when wet. HomeGuide notes it helps lower surface temperature. For covered areas, a textured polyaspartic flake system is a more decorative option.

Standard epoxy yellows in direct sun, so we do not use it as the top layer outdoors. A UV-stable topcoat such as polyaspartic, with grit added for traction, works far better on Valley patios.

HomeGuide lists cool-deck coatings at $4 to $6 per square foot and decorative pool deck overlays at $6 to $12. Crack repair and removing an old coating add to that. We give you a written price after seeing the deck.

We fill stable cracks before coating so they blend in. A patio that has sunk, tilts toward the house or keeps cracking needs that fixed first, and we will tell you if that is the case.

This Old House lists metallic epoxy at $5 to $12 per square foot. Removing tile and adhesive, leveling, and a premium topcoat add to that. We give you a written price after seeing the room.

We remove the tile and the thin-set mortar under it and coat the concrete directly. Coating over tile risks grout lines telegraphing through and the tile itself coming loose.

A smooth gloss finish can be slick when wet. For kitchens and entries we can add a fine anti-slip additive to the topcoat or use a satin finish.

Most residential rooms take two to four days including removal and prep. HomeGuide says solid epoxy is walkable in about 18 hours and fully cured in 7 days, so heavy furniture waits a few days.

HomeAdvisor lists commercial and industrial 100% solids systems at $12 or more per square foot, and This Old House says high-grade coatings add 20 to 30%. Heavy prep, joint repair and after-hours work change the price. We give you a written scope after walking the floor.

In most cases, yes. We phase the work in sections, work nights or weekends, and use fast-curing topcoats where needed so each section is back in use quickly.

A thick, 100% solids system on a ground slab, with repaired joint edges, holds up well to forklift traffic. Thin paints and single-coat products do not.

Yes. Aisle lines, walkways and storage zones can be built into the coating so they last as long as the floor.